“What is the expectation in an izakaya? We’re a family that doesn’t drink alcohol or smoke but love the food. Are we expected to order alcohol, and are izakayas smoke-filled?”

Great question! From my experience living in Japan and visiting izakayas all over the country, the short honest answer is: yes, basically. The word “izakaya” literally means a place to drink alcohol with food, so drinking is kind of the main event there. But let me break down what that really means for visitors.

What Exactly Is an Izakaya?

Izakayas are casual pubs where Japanese people go after work to unwind with coworkers or friends. Drinking alcohol—usually beer, sake, shochu, or cocktails—is definitely the norm. You’ll rarely see customers just eating without drinking in these places, because the whole vibe revolves around sharing drinks and chatting.

Think of it like a British pub or American bar with food—the drinks are the main attraction, and the food accompanies them.

“What if I don’t drink alcohol? Can I still enjoy an izakaya?”

You definitely can, but it’s a bit unusual. Most locals expect to have at least a beer or some sort of drink while at an izakaya. However, many izakayas offer:

• Non-alcoholic beer (like “Dry Zero”)
• Soft drinks
• Oolong tea
• Juice

If you order one of those, people will understand, but you might notice some curious glances—like, “Why aren’t you drinking?” It’s part of the social culture where drinking together bonds people.

My honest advice: If you’re a family that doesn’t drink and just wants great food, I’d recommend going to specialized restaurants instead of izakayas. For example:

• Yakitori-ya (grilled chicken skewer shops)
• Sashimi restaurants
• Ramen shops
• Tonkatsu restaurants

These places focus on the food, not the drinking atmosphere. You’ll often get better quality dishes at similar or lower prices, without the expectation to drink.

“Are there non-smoking izakayas, or do I have to put up with smoke everywhere?”

Smoking rules have been tightening in Japan, especially since 2020. Here’s the current situation:

In big cities (Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto):

• Many izakayas now have separate smoking rooms
• Some are fully non-smoking
• Modern chain izakayas tend to be smoke-free or well-ventilated

In smaller towns or older izakayas:

• Smoking indoors is still common
• The atmosphere can be quite smoky, especially late at night

How to find non-smoking spots:

• Ask when entering: “Kin-en seki wa arimasu ka?” (禁煙席はありますか？) = “Do you have non-smoking seats?”
• Look for izakayas advertising “全面禁煙” (zenmen kin-en) = completely non-smoking
• Modern chain izakayas are usually safer bets

“What kind of food do people usually eat at izakayas?”

Typical izakaya food includes small dishes perfect for sharing while drinking:

• Yakitori – Grilled chicken skewers (~¥150-300 each)
• Edamame – Salted soybeans (~¥300-400)
• Karaage – Japanese fried chicken (~¥500-700)
• Sashimi – Raw fish slices (~¥800-1,500)
• Pickles and salads – Various small plates
• Gyoza – Pan-fried dumplings (~¥400-600)

The dishes are usually salty, savory, and easy to eat with chopsticks—perfect for accompanying drinks.

“Are izakayas expensive?”

Izakayas can be surprisingly affordable, but there are some things to know:

The “Otoshi” Charge: Most izakayas have an automatic appetizer charge called “otoshi” (お通し) or “tsukidashi” (突き出し). This is a small dish you didn’t order that costs about ¥300-500 ($2.50-$4 USD). It’s standard practice, not a scam!

Typical Prices:

Total for a night out: Around ¥3,000-5,000 ($22-37 USD) per person if you’re drinking and eating a good amount.

“Is it okay to go to izakayas alone?”

Yes! Although izakayas are often group places for coworkers or friends, it’s not uncommon for locals to go alone. Solo diners usually sit at the counter and might chat a bit with the staff or other customers.

I personally enjoy solo izakaya visits because it gives me a chance to relax and watch the social scene unfold. Some izakayas are very friendly to solo visitors; others might be more old-fashioned and expect groups.

What Japanese People Actually Do

Most locals:

• Go to izakayas with coworkers after work (“nomikai” drinking parties)
• Order drinks first, then food comes throughout the night
• Share all the dishes with the group
• Stay for 2-3 hours chatting and drinking
• End with a final round and split the bill equally

For people who don’t want to drink heavily, specialized food restaurants are the preferred option.

My Recommendation for Non-Drinkers

If you love Japanese pub food but don’t want the drinking atmosphere:

1. Yakitori restaurants – Focus is on the chicken, not the booze
2. Teishoku restaurants – Set meal restaurants with balanced, home-style cooking
3. Department store food courts – Great variety, family-friendly
4. Yatai (food stalls) – Street food experience without pressure to drink

These options give you delicious food without the expectation of ordering alcohol.

Extra Travel Tips

1. “Nomihodai” (all-you-can-drink) – Many izakayas offer this for ¥1,500-2,000 for 2 hours. Great value if you drink, but useless if you don’t!

2. Kids in izakayas – Generally not recommended. Most izakayas don’t allow children, and the atmosphere is adult-oriented.

3. Late-night izakayas – The later it gets, the smokier and rowdier it becomes. For a calmer experience, go earlier (6-8 PM).

4. Reservations – Popular izakayas can be packed, especially on Friday nights. Reserving is a good idea for groups.

In a nutshell: izakayas are drinking places first and foremost. If you want a more food-focused or smoke-free experience, specialized restaurants might suit you better. But if you do want to try the real local vibe, visiting an izakaya with an open mind will show you a side of Japanese social life that’s hard to find anywhere else!

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